Did you know Alpine County is California’s least populous county with just over 1,200 residents, yet boasts more than 700 square miles of pristine wilderness including three national forests? This hidden Sierra Nevada gem offers some of the most spectacular outdoor adventures in California with far fewer crowds than Lake Tahoe or Yosemite. From crystal-clear alpine lakes to challenging hiking trails and world-class fishing spots, Alpine County delivers authentic mountain experiences for every season.
Getting to Alpine County
Alpine County is nestled in the Sierra Nevada mountains of eastern California, bordering Nevada. The county is accessible via several scenic routes, though winter conditions can affect travel plans.
By Air
The nearest major airports are Reno-Tahoe International Airport (about 60 miles northeast) and Sacramento International Airport (about 120 miles west). From either airport, you’ll need to rent a car to reach Alpine County.
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By Car
The main routes into Alpine County are Highway 4 (Ebbetts Pass), Highway 88 (Carson Pass), and Highway 89. During winter months (typically November through May), Ebbetts Pass (Highway 4) is closed due to snow. Always check road conditions before traveling, especially during winter.
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Best Time to Visit Alpine County
Seasonal Highlights
Summer (June-September)
The peak season for hiking, fishing, and water activities. Temperatures range from 70-85°F during the day, cooling significantly at night. All mountain passes are typically open, providing full access to the county.
Fall (October-November)
A spectacular time for photography and hiking with fewer crowds. Fall colors typically peak in mid-October. Temperatures range from 45-65°F, with potential for early snow at higher elevations.
Winter (December-March)
Perfect for skiing at Bear Valley and Kirkwood resorts. Many roads close due to snow, including Ebbetts Pass. Temperatures range from 20-40°F with significant snowfall.
Spring (April-May)
Wildflower season begins, though higher elevations may still have snow. Rivers run high with snowmelt, making it excellent for photography but challenging for crossing. Temperatures range from 45-65°F.
Where to Stay in Alpine County
Accommodation options in Alpine County are limited but charming, ranging from rustic lodges to vacation rentals. Booking ahead is essential, especially during summer and winter peak seasons.
Markleeville Area
The county seat offers a few bed and breakfasts and small inns. This area provides convenient access to hot springs, fishing spots, and hiking trails. It’s also close to the county’s limited dining options.
Bear Valley
Perfect for winter sports enthusiasts, Bear Valley offers lodge accommodations and vacation rentals near the ski resort. In summer, it serves as an excellent base for exploring the northern part of the county.
Kirkwood Area
Located on the border with Amador County, Kirkwood offers resort accommodations primarily catering to skiers and snowboarders in winter. Summer visitors can enjoy hiking and mountain biking from this location.
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Top Things to Do in Alpine County
Lake Alpine
Located along Highway 4, Lake Alpine is one of the county’s most accessible and popular destinations. This beautiful reservoir offers excellent opportunities for swimming, fishing, kayaking, and paddleboarding. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout throughout the season, making it a favorite among anglers. A $5 day use fee applies for access to facilities.
Visitor Tip: Arrive early during summer weekends to secure parking. The lake warms enough for comfortable swimming by mid-July, though the water remains refreshingly cool even in August.
Hiking Trails
Alpine County boasts some of California’s most spectacular hiking trails, many leading to pristine alpine lakes and stunning vistas. The Pacific Crest Trail passes through the county, offering day-hike options for those not tackling the entire route.
Popular Trails:
- Grouse Lake Trail (11.4 miles round trip, moderate difficulty)
- Round Top Summit and Winnemucca Lake Loop (6.6 miles, moderate)
- Bull Run Lake Trail (7.8 miles round trip, moderate)
- The Sisters in Mokelumnee Wilderness (8 miles, challenging)
Fishing Destinations
With numerous lakes, reservoirs, and rivers, Alpine County is a paradise for fishing enthusiasts. The area is known for its abundant trout fishing opportunities.
Top Fishing Spots:
- Carson River (rainbow and brown trout)
- Lake Alpine (regularly stocked with rainbow trout)
- Caples Lake (mackinaw, brown, and rainbow trout)
- Silver Lake (trophy-sized trout)
- East Fork Carson River (wild trout section)
California fishing license required. Purchase online or at local stores in Markleeville.
Winter Sports
When snow blankets the Sierra Nevada, Alpine County transforms into a winter wonderland. The county is home to two excellent ski resorts and numerous opportunities for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
Bear Valley Mountain Resort
Located on Highway 4, Bear Valley offers 1,680 acres of skiable terrain with 67 trails catering to all skill levels. The resort is known for its family-friendly atmosphere and shorter lift lines compared to larger Tahoe resorts.
Kirkwood Mountain Resort
Situated on the Alpine/Amador county line, Kirkwood is renowned for its challenging terrain and abundant snowfall. With 2,300 acres and 86 trails, it offers some of the most diverse skiing in the region.
Hot Springs
After a day of outdoor activities, visitors can relax in natural hot springs. Grover Hot Springs State Park near Markleeville features a developed pool complex fed by natural mineral springs. The pools are surrounded by meadows and pine forests, creating a tranquil setting for relaxation.
Hours: Vary seasonally, typically 10am-6pm with closures on Wednesday mornings for cleaning.
Fee: $10 per adult, $5 for children (cash only).
Facilities: Changing rooms, showers, and picnic areas available.
Historical Exploration
Alpine County has a rich history tied to the California Gold Rush and silver mining. History enthusiasts can explore several well-preserved sites that offer glimpses into the area’s past.
- Alpine County Historical Museum (Markleeville) – Houses artifacts and exhibits detailing the county’s mining history, Native American heritage, and pioneer life.
- Markleeville – The county seat features several historic buildings dating back to the 1860s, including the old jail and courthouse.
- Monitor Pass – This scenic route follows the path used by early settlers and miners entering the region.
- Silver Mountain City Site – Once a booming mining town and the original county seat, now a ghost town with interpretive signs.
Practical Tips for Visiting Alpine County
Weather Considerations
Alpine County experiences dramatic weather changes due to its elevation (5,000-11,000 feet). Even in summer, temperatures can drop significantly at night. Winter brings heavy snowfall, especially at higher elevations.
- Pack layers year-round
- Bring rain gear even in summer
- Winter visitors need chains for vehicles
- Check weather forecasts daily
Services & Amenities
Services are limited in this rural county. Plan accordingly for your visit.
- Gas stations are scarce – fill up in Markleeville or before entering the county
- Cell service is spotty – download maps offline
- ATMs are limited – bring cash
- Grocery options are minimal – stock up before arrival
- Medical facilities are limited – nearest hospitals are in South Lake Tahoe or Gardnerville, NV
Wilderness Etiquette
With 96% of Alpine County being public land, practicing good wilderness ethics is essential.
- Pack out all trash
- Respect wildlife – observe from a distance
- Stay on designated trails
- Use established fire rings only (when permitted)
- Check fire restrictions – often in place during summer
- Obtain wilderness permits for overnight backcountry trips
Where to Eat in Alpine County
Dining options in Alpine County are limited but offer quality meals featuring local ingredients and mountain charm. Most restaurants are concentrated in Markleeville, Bear Valley, and Kirkwood.
Local Favorites
Markleeville
- Alps Haus Café – Hearty breakfast and lunch options with outdoor seating
- Cutthroat Brewing Company – Craft beers and pub fare with local ingredients
- Markleeville General Store – Sandwiches, snacks, and basic groceries
Bear Valley & Kirkwood
- Bear Valley Lodge Restaurant – Mountain cuisine with a focus on comfort food
- Creekside Pizza – Family-friendly pizza and pasta
- The Wall Bar & Grill (Kirkwood) – Après-ski favorite with burgers and drinks
Dining Tip: Restaurant hours can be seasonal and limited, especially in smaller communities. Call ahead to confirm hours, particularly during off-season periods. Many visitors bring supplemental food and snacks for their stay.
Seasonal Events in Alpine County
Year-Round Calendar
Despite its small population, Alpine County hosts several unique events throughout the year that showcase local culture and natural beauty.
Summer Events
- Death Ride (July) – Legendary cycling event covering 103 miles and 14,000 feet of elevation gain
- Kids Fishing Day (Early July) – Family-friendly fishing event at Lake Alpine with special stocking
- Bear Valley Music Festival (Late July/Early August) – Two weeks of classical and popular music performances
Fall & Winter Events
- Alpine Aspen Festival (October) – Celebration of fall colors with guided hikes and educational programs
- Kirkwood Winter Festival (December) – Holiday celebrations with torchlight parades and fireworks
- Snowmobile Poker Run (February) – Community snowmobile event with prizes
Plan Your Alpine County Adventure
Alpine County offers a rare opportunity to experience California’s Sierra Nevada mountains in their most pristine form. With fewer crowds than neighboring destinations, visitors can truly connect with nature while enjoying world-class outdoor recreation. Whether you’re casting a line in a crystal-clear stream, hiking to a remote alpine lake, or carving fresh powder at one of the local ski resorts, Alpine County delivers authentic mountain experiences that will leave you planning your return visit before you’ve even left.
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