Did you know that Phonsavan, Laos is home to one of archaeology’s greatest mysteries? The Plain of Jars features over 2,000 massive stone vessels scattered across rolling hills, some weighing up to 30 tonnes. This UNESCO World Heritage site has puzzled experts for centuries, with theories ranging from ancient burial practices to rice wine storage. Beyond these enigmatic jars, Phonsavan offers a window into Laos’ turbulent history and vibrant ethnic cultures, making it a compelling destination for adventurous travelers.

Best Time to Visit Phonsavan

Phonsavan enjoys a pleasant climate year-round thanks to its elevation of 1,100 m (3,600 ft), though temperatures can drop significantly at night, especially during winter months.

Recommended Months to Visit

• November to February (Dry Season): The ideal time to visit with comfortable temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F), minimal rainfall, and clear skies perfect for exploring the Plain of Jars.
• March to May: Temperatures rise slightly, averaging 18°C to 28°C (64°F to 82°F). The landscape transforms as peach and orchid trees blossom in February, creating stunning scenery.

Months to Avoid

• June to October (Rainy Season): Heavy rainfall can make roads difficult to navigate and some attractions less accessible. However, this period offers lush green landscapes and fewer tourists.

Getting There & Planning Your Journey

The scenic mountain road journey to Phonsavan

By Air

Xiang Khouang Airport (XKH) in Phonsavan connects with Vientiane via Lao Airlines, offering several flights per week. This is the fastest way to reach Phonsavan, with flights taking approximately 30 minutes.

By Bus

Overland travel to Phonsavan is an adventure in itself:

• From Vientiane: 10-12 hour journey on paved but winding roads.
• From Luang Prabang: 8-10 hour journey through spectacular mountain scenery.
• From Vang Vieng: 7-10 hour journey, depending on road conditions.
• From Vietnam: Buses run from Vinh (12 hours) with border crossing at Nam Ka.

Planning Tips

• Allocate at least 2-3 days to properly explore Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars.
• Bring warm clothing, even in summer, as nights can be cool due to the elevation.
• Book accommodation in advance during peak season (November-February).
• Arrange tours to the Plain of Jars sites through your hotel or local travel agencies in town.

Getting Around Locally

Exploring Phonsavan by motorbike is a popular option for visitors

Navigating Phonsavan and its surroundings offers several options to suit different preferences:

Transportation Options

Where to Stay in Phonsavan

A typical guesthouse accommodation in Phonsavan

Phonsavan offers a range of accommodation options to suit various budgets. Most places are concentrated along the main street, providing easy access to restaurants and tour services.

Budget Options

• Kong Keo Guesthouse: Popular with backpackers, offering simple rooms with fans and mosquito nets. The owner provides informative Plain of Jars tours.
• Nice Guesthouse: As the name suggests, a pleasant option with English-speaking staff and Wi-Fi.
• Sabaidee Guesthouse: Located near the fresh market with affordable double or twin rooms.

Mid-range Options

• Maly Hotel: Features a good restaurant and rooms with unique UXO and ethnic-themed decor. Owners are knowledgeable about local history.
• White Orchid Guesthouse: Popular place on the main road that organizes tours and offers decent rooms.
• Xieng Khouang Hotel: Centrally located with a restaurant serving breakfast featuring Vietnamese coffee.

Luxury Options

• Vansana Plain of Jars: Professionally managed hotel with modern, clean, and spacious rooms.
• The Hillside Residence: Colonial-style wooden villa offering charming rooms with balconies and a relaxed atmosphere.
• Phouphadeng Hotel: Located on a hill with wonderful views and an excellent French restaurant with Alsatian-influenced cuisine.

Dining & Local Cuisine

Traditional Lao dishes featuring local Xieng Khouang specialties

Phonsavan’s cool climate and high elevation produce unique food items and forest products that are either unavailable or scarce in other parts of Laos, creating a distinctive local cuisine.

Local Specialties

• Matsutake Mushrooms: The prized hed wai mushroom is specific to the region and exported at high prices worldwide.
• Seasonal Fruits: Chinese pears (mak jong), passion fruit (mak nawt), peaches (mak kai), and plums (mak mun) are local specialties.
• Jaeow Bong: A sour version of the famous chili paste from Luang Prabang.
• “Sour Swallow”: A unique delicacy available only in Xieng Khouang, made from fermented migratory swallows.

Recommended Restaurants

• Craters: Caters to Western tastes with pizza, burgers, and other favorites in a nicely designed interior.
• Nisha: Serves both Indian and Lao food for vegetarians and meat-eaters. Unassuming interior but recommended food.
• Bombie’s Restaurant: Offers local and Western food with an English-speaking owner.
• Khemna Restaurant: Known for fish and other local items.
• Cranky-T Café and Bar: Serves food items like teriyaki and drinks including wine and cocktails.

Attractions & Sightseeing

The mysterious stone vessels at Plain of Jars Site 1

Plain of Jars

The UNESCO World Heritage Site is the main attraction in Phonsavan, featuring thousands of mysterious stone jars scattered across multiple sites:

• Site 1: The closest to town with the largest collection of massive jars, some weighing over 26 tonnes. The Information Centre is located here.
• Site 2: Nestled in trees, offering a different atmosphere from Site 1. Many visitors consider this their favorite site.
• Site 3: Located further from town with four separate areas. Worth seeing if time permits.

War History Sites

The UXO Visitor Centre educates visitors about Laos’ wartime history

Xieng Khouang was heavily bombed during the Second Indochina War, and evidence of this history is visible throughout the region:

• UXO Visitor Centre: Learn about the Mines Advisory Group’s work clearing unexploded ordnance.
• UXO Survivor Information Centre: Run by the Xiengkhouang Quality of Life Association, featuring exhibits about how people deal with life after bomb accidents.
• War Memorials: Constructed to commemorate Pathet Lao soldiers and their Vietnamese allies.
• Ban Napia Village: Where locals create spoons and other items from war scrap metal.

Historical Sites

• Tham Piu Cave: Site of a tragic wartime incident where hundreds of civilians lost their lives.
• Tham Xang Caves: Used by revolutionary fighters during the war, with evidence of a hospital, arsenal, and medical depot still visible.
• Muang Khoun: The old provincial capital, partially rebuilt after being destroyed by wartime bombing.
• Xiengkhoung Provincial Museum: Displays local relics, traditional textiles, and Pathet Lao historical items.

Nature & Outdoor Experiences

The picturesque Tad Ka Waterfall near Tajok village

Beyond its historical significance, Phonsavan offers stunning natural landscapes characterized by high mountains, pine forests, rolling hills, and grasslands.

Natural Attractions

• Hot Springs: Located 67 km from Phonsavan near Muang Kham, the Baw Nyai hot spring has been developed as a resort with bungalows and indoor bathing facilities.
• Nong Tang Lake: A large picturesque natural lake flanked by high limestone cliffs, popular for fishing and picnics.
• Lake Jao Supanouvong: Named for the first president of the Lao PDR, this lake offers a peaceful setting just 3 km north of town.

Waterfalls

• Tad Ka Waterfall (Tajok): Located 32 km north of Phonsavan, featuring water flowing down several tiers with a spectacular jungle trail.
• Tad Ka Waterfall (Nong Het): An impressive waterfall surrounded by limestone karst, cascading down for more than 100 meters.
• Tad Lang Waterfall: Located near Jar Site 3, cascading down about 800 meters and offering a good picnic spot.

The dramatic karst landscape surrounding Phonsavan

Outdoor Activities

• Hiking: Trails around waterfalls and through the countryside offer excellent opportunities to experience the natural beauty of the region.
• Photography: The unique landscape, particularly during peach and orchid tree blossoming in February, provides stunning photo opportunities.
• Village Visits: Explore traditional villages of various ethnic groups, including the Hmong, Phuan, and Tai Dam.

Cultural Experiences & Local Life

Hmong women in traditional dress at a local market

Phonsavan is home to various ethnic groups, each with their own distinct cultural traditions, crafts, and lifestyles.

Ethnic Communities

• Hmong: Known for their elaborate New Year celebrations and distinctive embroidery.
• Phuan: The ancestors of this group once founded a kingdom in the region.
• Khmu and Tai Dam: Each with their own unique cultural practices and traditions.

Local Crafts

• The Mulberry Silk Farm: Located in Ban Li, this fair trade company revives the art of high-quality silk production using natural dyes.
• Hmong Crafts Centre: Offering products made by Hmong artisans in the city center.
• Navang Craft Centre: Famous for woodcarving using scented long leng wood (Fujian cypress).
• Ban Napia Village: Known for creating aluminum spoons and other items from war scrap.

Traditional silk weaving demonstration at the Mulberry Silk Farm

Community Initiatives

• SOS Orphanage: Founded in 1998 to care for children who lost their parents in UXO accidents.
• English Centre at Phonsavan School: Welcomes English-speaking tourists to participate in evening classes.
• Quality of Life Association: Helps UXO survivors recreate their livelihoods after bomb accidents.

Safety & Practical Travel Tips

UXO warning sign highlighting important safety information

UXO Safety

Health Considerations

• Bring warm clothing as nights can be cool, especially from November to February.
• Pack sunscreen and a hat for daytime exploration, as the sun can be intense at higher elevations.
• Carry basic medications, as pharmaceutical options are limited in Phonsavan.
• Drink bottled water and be cautious with street food to avoid stomach issues.

Practical Information

• Currency: Lao kip is the primary currency, though some places accept Thai baht or US dollars. ATMs are available in town.
• Internet: Several internet cafes on the main street offer reasonably fast connections.
• Post: There’s a DHL drop-off point at the main market and a Lao post office.
• Area Code: 061

Cultural Etiquette

• Dress modestly, especially when visiting temples or villages.
• Ask permission before photographing local people.
• Remove shoes when entering homes or temples.
• Respect local customs and traditions, particularly during religious ceremonies.

Ready to Explore Phonsavan?

Magical sunset over Phonsavan’s mystical landscape

Phonsavan offers a unique blend of archaeological mystery, sobering history, and natural beauty that rewards adventurous travelers willing to venture off the typical Southeast Asian tourist trail. From the enigmatic Plain of Jars to the warm hospitality of local communities, this destination provides authentic experiences and unforgettable memories.

Whether you’re fascinated by ancient mysteries, interested in recent history, or simply seeking to explore a less-visited corner of Laos, Phonsavan deserves a place on your travel itinerary. The journey may be long, but the rewards are rich for those who make the effort to discover this remarkable region.