Xam Neua, Laos: Best Things to Do – Top Picks

Did you know that nestled in Laos’ remote northeastern mountains lies Xam Neua, home to an extraordinary cave complex that once served as the secret headquarters for the Pathet Lao during America’s “Secret War”? This hidden gem, despite requiring a challenging journey to reach, rewards intrepid travelers with authentic cultural experiences and breathtaking landscapes that few Western tourists ever witness.

Getting to Xam Neua & Planning Your Journey

Reaching Xam Neua requires commitment, as it’s located in one of Laos’ most remote provinces. The journey itself becomes part of the adventure, with spectacular mountain scenery along the way.

By Air

The most convenient option is flying from Vientiane to Nong Khang Airport (35km north of Xam Neua) via Lao Airlines. Daily flights are available, taking approximately 1 hour. From the airport, taxis await to transport you to town (about 60 minutes).

By Bus

For budget travelers, buses connect Xam Neua to several destinations:

• From Luang Prabang: 15-hour journey (130,000 kip), with daily departures around 8:30 AM and evening
• From Nong Khiaw: 10-11 hour journey (130,000 kip)
• From Phonsavan: 8-hour journey (100,000 kip)
• From Vietnam: Via Nam Soi-Na Meo border crossing from Thanh Hoa (9-10 hours)

Pro tip: When traveling from Nong Khiaw, buses are often full. Consider first taking a bus to Pakmong, then catching the eastbound bus to Xam Neua for better chances of getting a seat.

Best Time to Visit Xam Neua

Xam Neua’s climate varies significantly throughout the year, with its mountain elevation of 1,200m influencing temperatures.

The town is known for its winter fog, which can occasionally affect transportation. If visiting during December-February, be prepared for chilly evenings with temperatures that can drop significantly after sunset.

Getting Around Xam Neua

Xam Neua is a compact town where most attractions are within walking distance. The center is easily navigable on foot with little traffic to contend with.

Local Transportation Options

• Walking: The most practical way to explore the town center
• Tuk-tuks: Available around the central monument for short trips (few thousand kip)
• Motorbike rental: Limited availability (around 50,000-225,000 kip per day) – Dannao Restaurant is one rental option
• Local buses: Two stations serve the area – Nathong station for local destinations (4km east of center) and the inter-provincial station (1km south)

For exploring attractions outside town like Vieng Xai caves or Nam Neua waterfall, renting a motorbike offers the most flexibility. However, if you’re not comfortable riding, taxis can be arranged for day trips (around 250,000 kip).

Where to Stay in Xam Neua

Accommodation in Xam Neua is basic but adequate, with most options concentrated in a few blocks between the main road and the southernmost bridge. Don’t expect luxury, but you’ll find clean, comfortable places to rest.

Most guesthouses don’t have online booking options, but Phasouk Guesthouse is recommended by previous travelers and can sometimes be reserved in advance.

Dining & Local Cuisine

Xam Neua’s cuisine reflects its proximity to Vietnam, with a delicious blend of Lao and Vietnamese influences. The town’s markets are the heart of local food culture.

Where to Eat

• Wet Market (east side of river) – Best for authentic local food, fresh pho, and Lao noodle soups
• Night Market (across from city park) – Various grilled and deep-fried options each evening
• Dannao Meaung Xam Restaurant – Most popular restaurant with English menu offering Lao and Western options (15,000-50,000 kip)
• Chittavanh Restaurant – Attached to the guesthouse, popular with both tourists and locals
• Many Coffee and Yuni Coffee – Good specialty coffees (12,000-18,000 kip) and breakfast options
• Omany BBQ – Lao-style hotpot with fish or meat

Must-Try Dishes

• Vietnamese-style Pho – Especially good at the morning market
• Lao noodle soups – Hearty and flavorful
• Fresh baguette sandwiches – Reflecting French colonial influence
• Lao-style BBQ – Try at Omany BBQ
• BeerLao – The national beer, available at most restaurants

For the most authentic experience, head to the market in the morning when it’s bustling with activity. Most restaurants close early (around 9 PM), so plan accordingly.

Top Attractions & Things to Do

1. Vieng Xai Caves

The highlight of any visit to the area, these caves served as a hidden city for Pathet Lao leaders during the American bombing campaign (1964-1973). Located about 30km from Xam Neua, the caves housed hospitals, offices, and living quarters. Guided tours provide fascinating insights into this important historical period.

2. Nam Neua Waterfall

This impressive 80-meter waterfall is located about 6km before the Vieng Xai turnoff. The top is easily accessible, but the more adventurous can hike a few kilometers to reach the bottom for swimming in the natural pools. The view is spectacular and well worth the effort.

3. Xam Neua Markets

The town’s markets offer a glimpse into local life. Visit the wet market on the east side of the river for fresh produce and authentic food. The main market (just south of the wet market) has handicrafts, though be aware of imported goods from China and Vietnam. The small night market offers tasty evening snacks.

4. Suan Keo Lak Meung Monument

This unusual monument at the main roundabout features a shiny ball at the top, referencing Xam Neua’s nickname as an “indestructible jewel.” While somewhat bizarre in appearance, it’s a distinctive landmark in the town center.

5. Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park

For wildlife enthusiasts, this protected area offers rare opportunities to spot birds and possibly other wildlife. The Night Safari on the river is highly recommended and can be arranged through the park office. Located near Muang Hiam (also called Vieng Thong), it’s a worthwhile detour when traveling between Nong Khiaw and Xam Neua.

6. Local Handicrafts

The Hua Phan province is known for its distinctive textiles and handicrafts. Look for specialist local shops rather than the main market for authentic pieces. These make wonderful souvenirs and support local artisans.

Practical Travel Tips

Money & Banking

There are approximately 10 ATMs around town representing BCEL, JDB, and LDB banks. Currency exchange is available at banks. The local currency is the Lao kip, though some places may accept Thai baht or US dollars for larger purchases.

Communication

The provincial Tourist Information Centre in town is helpful and open Monday-Friday. They can provide maps and information about local attractions. For internet access, some guesthouses offer free WiFi, though connection speeds may be slow.

Safety

Xam Neua is generally safe, but be aware that thieves occasionally target tourists on isolated stretches of Route 6 near town. Keep valuables secure and avoid traveling alone on remote roads after dark.

Border Crossing

If continuing to Vietnam, buses to Thanh Hoa (180,000 kip) depart at 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM, taking about 10 hours. Important note: Vietnamese visas are NOT available at the Nam Soi/Na Meo border crossing, so arrange your visa in advance.

Is Xam Neua Worth Visiting?

Xam Neua itself may not be the most exciting destination in Laos, but it serves as an essential gateway to some truly remarkable experiences. The Vieng Xai caves offer a powerful glimpse into Laos’ turbulent history, while the surrounding landscapes showcase the country’s natural beauty at its most pristine.

For travelers seeking authentic experiences away from the tourist crowds, Xam Neua rewards the effort required to reach it. The journey may be long, but the memories of this remote corner of Laos – with its fascinating history, stunning scenery, and warm local hospitality – will last a lifetime.