Did you know that Codrington, the main settlement on Barbuda, is home to one of the world’s largest frigate bird sanctuaries, where over 5,000 magnificent birds gather in a spectacular display found nowhere else in the Caribbean? This hidden gem of Antigua and Barbuda offers travelers a rare glimpse into unspoiled Caribbean beauty, with pink-sand beaches that stretch for miles without another soul in sight. Unlike its more developed sister island Antigua, Barbuda and its main village of Codrington provide an authentic escape from the typical tourist experience—a true paradise for those willing to venture beyond the ordinary.

Getting There & Planning Your Journey

Reaching Codrington requires a bit more effort than typical Caribbean destinations, but the journey is well worth it for those seeking authentic experiences. The village is located on Barbuda, the smaller island in the nation of Antigua and Barbuda, approximately 45 km (28 miles) north of Antigua.

By Air

The fastest way to reach Barbuda is by a 20-minute flight from V.C. Bird International Airport in Antigua. Barbuda Express Air and ABM Air offer daily scheduled flights, weather permitting. Flights cost approximately $150-200 USD round trip, and it’s advisable to book in advance, especially during peak season (December-April).

By Ferry

The more economical option is the Barbuda Express ferry, which departs from St. John’s Harbor in Antigua. The journey takes approximately 90 minutes and costs around $50-55 USD one way or $100 USD round trip. The ferry operates daily (except during severe weather conditions), with morning departures from Antigua and afternoon returns from Barbuda.

The Barbuda Express also offers guided day tours that include round-trip transportation, a local guide, visits to key attractions, and lunch. These operate on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, departing at 6:30 am from Antigua.

Best Time to Visit Codrington

Timing your visit to Codrington is crucial for the best experience. The climate in Barbuda is tropical with relatively consistent temperatures year-round, but there are distinct advantages to visiting during certain months.

Recommended Months to Visit

• December to April: The peak dry season offers ideal weather with temperatures ranging from 24°C to 29°C (75°F to 84°F), low humidity, and minimal rainfall. This is perfect for beach activities and exploring the frigate bird sanctuary.
• May to June: The shoulder season provides a good balance of pleasant weather and fewer tourists. Temperatures average 26°C to 31°C (79°F to 88°F).
• November: The end of the rainy season can offer good value with improving weather and fewer visitors.

Months to Avoid

• August to October: This is the height of hurricane season in the Caribbean. While prices are lower, there’s a higher risk of storms disrupting travel plans, and some businesses may be closed.
• July: Very hot and humid, with temperatures often exceeding 32°C (90°F).

Special Events

If you’re interested in local culture, consider visiting during Barbuda’s Caribana Festival in June, which features colorful parades, music, and traditional food. For nature enthusiasts, the frigate bird mating season (September to April) offers the most spectacular viewing at the sanctuary, with males inflating their bright red throat pouches to attract females.

Getting Around Locally

Local transportation options in Codrington village

Codrington is a small village that’s easy to navigate on foot, but exploring the wider attractions of Barbuda requires transportation. Here are your best options:

Rental Vehicles

Renting a vehicle gives you the freedom to explore Barbuda at your own pace. Options include:

• Jeeps and SUVs: Best for navigating the island’s sometimes rough terrain and accessing remote beaches. Expect to pay $70-90 USD per day.
• Scooters and ATVs: A fun option for couples or solo travelers, costing around $50-60 USD daily.

Taxis and Guided Tours

Local taxi drivers double as tour guides and offer a wealth of knowledge about the island. Rates are negotiable but expect to pay around $25-30 USD per hour or $150-200 USD for a full-day island tour. Most ferry arrivals are met by taxi drivers, or your accommodation can arrange one for you.

Bicycles

Some guesthouses offer bicycle rentals, which are perfect for exploring Codrington village and nearby beaches. Rentals cost approximately $15-20 USD per day.

Where to Stay

Beachfront accommodations offer stunning views of Barbuda’s pristine coastline

Accommodations in Codrington and Barbuda are limited but charming, offering an authentic Caribbean experience rather than large resort complexes. Most options are small guesthouses, boutique hotels, and vacation rentals.

Best Places to Stay in Codrington

Alternative Options

If accommodations in Codrington are fully booked, consider staying in Antigua and taking a day trip to Barbuda. The Barbuda Express ferry offers day tours that allow you to experience the highlights of the island without overnight accommodations.

Dining & Local Cuisine

Fresh lobster is a specialty in Barbudan cuisine

Dining in Codrington offers a genuine taste of Barbudan cuisine, with an emphasis on ultra-fresh seafood and locally grown ingredients. The dining scene is small but authentic, with most establishments being family-run restaurants and beach bars.

Must-Try Local Dishes

• Barbuda Lobster: The island is famous for its lobster, which is typically grilled or stewed with local spices.
• Conch Water: A flavorful soup made with conch meat, vegetables, and aromatic herbs.
• Johnny Cakes: Fried bread that accompanies most meals.
• Ducana: A sweet potato dumpling flavored with coconut, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
• Fungi: A cornmeal-based side dish similar to polenta, often served with saltfish.

Top Dining Spots in Codrington

Attractions, Sightseeing & Activities

Male frigate birds display their distinctive red pouches during mating season

Codrington Lagoon National Park

The crown jewel of Barbuda’s attractions, this protected area is home to one of the largest frigate bird colonies in the world. During mating season (September to April), male frigate birds inflate their bright red throat pouches to attract females, creating a spectacular natural display.

The sanctuary is only accessible by boat, and local guides offer tours that provide fascinating insights into these magnificent birds. The tour typically costs $50-75 USD per person and lasts about 2-3 hours.

Princess Diana Beach

Formerly known as Palmetto Beach, this stunning 17 km (11 mile) stretch of pink sand was renamed in honor of Princess Diana, who loved vacationing here. The beach’s distinctive pink hue comes from crushed red shells mixed with white sand, creating a magical effect, especially during sunrise and sunset.

The beach is rarely crowded, offering visitors the unique experience of having a world-class beach almost entirely to themselves. Swimming conditions are excellent, with calm, crystal-clear waters perfect for snorkeling.

Darby Cave

This fascinating limestone sinkhole is approximately 100 meters (328 feet) in diameter and features unusual stalactite formations. According to local legend, the cave was used as a shelter by the island’s early Amerindian inhabitants.

Located in the highlands of Barbuda, the cave is surrounded by lush vegetation and offers a cool respite from the tropical heat. Guided tours can be arranged through local operators for approximately $40-60 USD per person.

Two Foot Bay

On the northeastern coast of Barbuda, Two Foot Bay features dramatic limestone cliffs, hidden caves, and pristine beaches. The area is excellent for hiking, photography, and exploring the numerous caves, some of which contain ancient petroglyphs created by the island’s original Arawak inhabitants.

The bay also offers good snorkeling opportunities, with colorful reef fish visible in the clear waters close to shore. Local guides can enhance the experience by sharing stories about the area’s history and pointing out easily missed features.

The stunning pink sands of Princess Diana Beach stretch for 17 km (11 miles)

Martello Tower

This historic fortification was built by the British in the early 19th century as part of the island’s defenses. The tower offers panoramic views of the surrounding coastline and provides insight into Barbuda’s colonial past.

The tower is partially in ruins but still an impressive structure and worth visiting for history enthusiasts. It’s located near River Beach, about 3 km (1.9 miles) from Codrington village.

Museums, Cultural Spots & Festivals

Local cultural festivals showcase Barbudan traditions and heritage

Barbuda Museum

Located in Codrington village, this small but informative museum houses artifacts that tell the story of Barbuda’s history, from its Amerindian origins through the colonial period to the present day. The museum includes displays on the island’s unique ecosystem, cultural traditions, and the impact of Hurricane Irma in 2017.

Admission is by donation, and local volunteers are often on hand to provide additional context and answer questions. Opening hours can be irregular, so it’s best to inquire locally about current times.

Codrington Estate Ruins

These ruins are what remain of the estate established by the Codrington family, who leased the entire island from 1685 to 1870. The estate has a dark history as a “slave farm” where enslaved people were bred to work on sugar plantations in Antigua and other Caribbean islands.

Today, the ruins serve as an important historical site that helps visitors understand Barbuda’s complex past. Local guides can provide detailed historical context that brings the site to life.

Cultural Festivals

Local Crafts

Barbuda has a small but talented community of artisans who create handcrafted souvenirs, including:

• Straw work: Hats, bags, and baskets woven from local palm fronds
• Shell jewelry: Unique pieces made from the island’s colorful seashells
• Wood carvings: Handcrafted items depicting local wildlife and scenes

These authentic souvenirs can be purchased directly from artisans in Codrington village or at small shops near the ferry terminal.

Sports, Nature & Outdoor Experiences

The clear waters around Barbuda offer excellent snorkeling opportunities

Water Activities

Fishing

Barbuda offers excellent fishing opportunities, from reef fishing to deep-sea excursions. Local fishermen can take you out for a half-day or full-day trip, targeting species such as mahi-mahi, wahoo, tuna, and marlin.

Prices vary depending on the type and duration of the fishing trip, but expect to pay around $300-500 USD for a half-day charter. Many operators will clean your catch, and local restaurants may be willing to cook it for you.

Bird Watching

Beyond the famous frigate bird sanctuary, Barbuda is home to over 170 bird species, making it a paradise for bird watchers. Look for the Barbuda warbler (found nowhere else in the world), tropicbirds, pelicans, and various herons and egrets.

Prime bird-watching locations include the salt ponds near Codrington village, the mangrove areas of Codrington Lagoon, and the wetlands around Bull Hole. Guided bird-watching tours can be arranged for approximately $50-75 USD per person.

Hiking & Exploration

While Barbuda doesn’t have mountainous terrain, it offers several interesting hiking opportunities:

• The Highland Area: Gentle hills with panoramic views of the island
• Coastal Trails: Paths along the dramatic eastern coastline
• Cave Exploration: Guided tours of the island’s numerous limestone caves

Local fishing boats return to Codrington harbor with fresh catches daily

Due to the island’s small size and relatively undeveloped nature, it’s advisable to hire a local guide for hiking excursions. They can ensure you stay on safe paths and enhance your experience with knowledge about local flora, fauna, and history.

Safety, Etiquette & Local Customs

Understanding local customs enhances your experience in Codrington

Safety Considerations

Barbuda is generally a safe destination with low crime rates, but it’s always wise to take standard precautions:

• Secure valuables in your accommodation’s safe when available
• Avoid displaying expensive jewelry or electronics
• Be cautious when swimming, as some beaches may have strong currents
• Carry a basic first aid kit, as medical facilities on the island are limited
• Use reef-safe sunscreen and stay hydrated in the tropical climate

The nearest hospital is in Antigua, so comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical evacuation is strongly recommended.

Local Etiquette

Barbudans are known for their friendliness and hospitality. To ensure positive interactions:

• Greet people with a friendly “Good morning,” “Good afternoon,” or “Good evening” before starting a conversation
• Ask permission before taking photos of local people
• Dress modestly when away from the beach, especially when visiting churches or government buildings
• Respect the slow pace of island life and avoid showing impatience

Cultural Insights

Understanding Barbuda’s unique cultural context will enrich your visit:

• Land Ownership: Until recently, Barbuda had a communal land ownership system dating back to emancipation from slavery. This system is a source of pride and identity for many Barbudans.
• Hurricane Irma Impact: The 2017 hurricane forced the evacuation of the entire island population. While rebuilding has progressed, this event remains a sensitive topic for many locals.
• Independence: Some Barbudans advocate for greater autonomy from Antigua. Being respectful of local perspectives on this issue is appreciated.

Practical Travel Tips

Essential Items to Pack

• Reef-safe sunscreen (crucial for protecting the marine environment)
• Insect repellent (especially important during dawn and dusk)
• Hat and sunglasses for sun protection
• Light, breathable clothing
• Reusable water bottle (reducing plastic waste)
• Cash (ATMs are limited, and many businesses don’t accept credit cards)
• Basic medications and first aid supplies
• Snorkeling gear (though rentals are available)

Connectivity

Mobile coverage in Barbuda is improving but can still be spotty in remote areas. The main providers are Flow and Digicel, both offering prepaid SIM cards that can be purchased in Antigua before your trip to Barbuda.

Wi-Fi is available at most accommodations but may be slower than what you’re accustomed to. Consider this an opportunity to disconnect and fully immerse yourself in the island experience.

Sustainable Tourism

Barbuda’s natural environment is its greatest treasure. Help preserve it by:

• Using reef-safe sunscreen to protect coral reefs
• Avoiding collecting shells or coral from beaches
• Properly disposing of all waste
• Conserving water, which is a precious resource on the island
• Supporting locally owned businesses
• Respecting wildlife by maintaining appropriate distances

Day Trip Planning

If you’re visiting Barbuda as a day trip from Antigua, maximize your time with these tips:

• Book the earliest ferry departure (usually 7:00 am) to maximize your time on the island
• Arrange transportation and tours in advance
• Prioritize 2-3 key attractions rather than trying to see everything
• Consider joining an organized day tour that includes transportation and major attractions

Ready to Discover Codrington?

Codrington and Barbuda offer a rare glimpse into the unspoiled Caribbean, where pristine beaches stretch for miles without crowds, unique wildlife thrives in protected habitats, and local culture remains authentic and welcoming. Whether you’re seeking a day of exploration from Antigua or a longer stay to truly disconnect and unwind, this hidden gem rewards those willing to venture beyond the typical tourist path.

From the spectacular frigate bird sanctuary to the mesmerizing pink sands of Princess Diana Beach, from fresh lobster dinners to fascinating historical sites, Codrington provides experiences that can’t be found elsewhere in the Caribbean. The extra effort to reach this less-traveled destination is richly rewarded with memories that will last a lifetime.

Start planning your journey to Codrington today, and discover why this small village on Barbuda is one of the Caribbean’s best-kept secrets.