Did you know that Pumalin Park protects 25% of Chile’s remaining ancient alerce trees, some of which have been growing for over 3,000 years? This remarkable conservation success story began when American philanthropist Douglas Tompkins purchased vast tracts of temperate rainforest in the 1990s, eventually creating what would become one of Chile’s most spectacular national parks. Today, Pumalin Douglas Tompkins National Park spans nearly one million acres, offering visitors a pristine wilderness experience with well-maintained trails, stunning fjords, and some of the oldest living trees on Earth.
Getting to Pumalin Park & Planning Your Journey
Pumalin Park is located in the Palena Province of southern Chile, approximately 250 km south of Puerto Montt and 24 km north of Chaitén. The park completely bisects Chile, stretching from the Pacific coast to the Argentine border, with the Carretera Austral highway running along its western edge.
From Puerto Montt
By Air
The fastest option is flying from Puerto Montt’s La Paloma Aerodrome to Chaitén (50-minute flight). Daily flights are available, but book in advance during high season (December-February).
By Ferry
Several weekly ferries connect Puerto Montt to Chaitén (9-hour journey). Alternatively, take the ferry route from Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo, which requires advance booking and includes a ferry-road-ferry combination.
By Road
If driving from Puerto Montt, follow these steps:
- Drive south on the Carretera Austral to Caleta Arena
- Take the ferry from Caleta Arena to Caleta Puelche (20 minutes)
- Drive to Hornopirén (60 km)
- Take the ferry from Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo (4.5 hours total with one transfer at Leptepu)
Ready to Start Your Pumalin Adventure?
Book your flights to Puerto Montt and begin your journey to one of Chile’s most spectacular national parks.
Best Time to Visit & Weather Tips
The climate in northern Patagonia is milder than in the southern regions, making Pumalin Park accessible year-round. However, some seasons offer better experiences than others.
Summer (December-February)
- Peak season with warmest temperatures (16-20°C/60-68°F)
- Driest months, though December can see rainfall
- All trails and campsites open
- More visitors, especially in January
Shoulder Seasons (Nov & Mar-Apr)
- Fewer crowds and lower prices
- Comfortable hiking temperatures
- Beautiful fall colors in March-April
- Higher chance of rainfall, especially in April
Weather Tip: Rain can occur year-round in this temperate rainforest region. Always pack waterproof clothing and be prepared for sudden weather changes, even in summer. Some trails become slippery or impassable after heavy rain.
Getting Around Pumalin Park
Pumalin Park is divided into northern and southern sectors, with the Carretera Austral highway running through the western portion. Understanding the park’s layout is essential for planning your visit.
Park Sectors
Northern Sector (Pumalín Norte)
Accessible only by boat or kayak, this section features pristine fjords, sea lion colonies, and hidden thermal springs. Multi-day kayak trips from Puerto Varas are the best way to explore this area.
Southern Sector (Pumalín Sur)
The main area for hiking and camping, accessible by road via the Carretera Austral. The primary entrance points are Caleta Gonzalo in the north and El Amarillo in the south near Chaitén.
Transportation Options
- Private Vehicle: Offers the most flexibility for exploring the park’s southern sector. The roads are gravel but generally well-maintained.
- Bus: Daily buses run from Puerto Montt to Chaitén, stopping at Caleta Gonzalo. From Chaitén, buses to Futaleufú can drop you at the El Amarillo entrance.
- Hitchhiking: A common practice along the Carretera Austral, though not always reliable.
Explore Pumalin Park at Your Own Pace
Rent a vehicle to discover all the hidden gems of Pumalin and the Carretera Austral.
Where to Stay in Pumalin Park
Pumalin Park offers both camping and cabin accommodations within its boundaries, allowing visitors to fully immerse themselves in the natural environment.
Lodging Options
Caleta Gonzalo Lodge
The only indoor accommodation within the park, offering beautiful wooden cabins with private bathrooms and heating. The lodge includes a restaurant serving locally-sourced food.
Price range: $$-$$$
Campgrounds
Seven well-maintained campsites throughout the park, each with toilets and some with cold showers and cooking shelters. Cost: CLP 6,000 (US$6) per person per night.
Popular sites: Lago Negro, Cascadas Escondidas, Ventisquero
Nearby Towns
Chaitén (58km south of Caleta Gonzalo) offers basic hotels, hostels, and restaurants. El Amarillo and Hornopirén also provide accommodation options near park entrances.
Best for: More amenities and services
Reservation Tips: Campsites operate on a first-come, first-served basis with no reservations. During peak season (January-February), arrive early to secure a spot. For Caleta Gonzalo Lodge, reservations are essential and can be made through their website.
Find Your Perfect Stay Near Pumalin Park
Book accommodation in Chaitén, Hornopirén, or Puerto Montt as your gateway to exploring this magnificent national park.
Dining & Local Cuisine
Food options within Pumalin Park are limited, so planning ahead is essential. The region’s cuisine features fresh seafood, locally-raised meats, and native ingredients.
Dining Options
Within the Park
- Caleta Gonzalo Restaurant: The only restaurant in the park, serving homemade meals with vegetables from their garden. Open during high season.
- Caleta Gonzalo Café: Offers coffee, pastries, and simple sandwiches near the ferry terminal.
Outside these options, you’ll need to bring and prepare your own food if camping.
Nearby Towns
- Chaitén: Several small restaurants serving Chilean classics and fresh seafood.
- El Amarillo: Limited options with one or two family-run restaurants.
- Hornopirén: More dining choices, including seafood restaurants with views of the fjord.
Local Specialties to Try
- Curanto: Traditional dish of shellfish, meat, and potatoes cooked in an earth oven
- Chupe de mariscos: Creamy seafood stew
- Cordero al palo: Patagonian spit-roasted lamb
- Calafate berry desserts: Local berries used in jams and pastries
Food Planning Tip: There are no grocery stores within the park. Stock up on supplies in Puerto Montt, Hornopirén, or Chaitén before entering. If camping, bring a portable stove and cooking equipment.
Top Attractions & Activities in Pumalin Park
Pumalin Park offers a diverse range of natural attractions, from ancient forests to volcanic landscapes and pristine waterways. Here are the must-see highlights of the park.
Ancient Alerce Forests
Walk among some of the oldest living trees on Earth, with specimens dating back 3,000+ years. The Los Alerces Trail offers an accessible 40-minute walk to see these magnificent giants.
Chaitén Volcano
Hike to the caldera of this active volcano that erupted dramatically in 2008. The 2.5-hour trail offers stunning views of the destruction and subsequent regrowth of the forest.
Cascadas Escondidas
Discover three beautiful waterfalls on this 2-hour trail through lush rainforest. The well-maintained path makes this accessible for most fitness levels.
Michinmahuida Glacier
Take the challenging El Ventisquero Trail (6 hours round-trip) to reach the impressive glacier on the slopes of Michinmahuida Volcano.
Coastal Fjords
Explore the spectacular coastline where mountains meet the sea. The view from Caleta Gonzalo offers a perfect introduction to the park’s fjord landscape.
Lago Negro
Take an easy 30-minute walk to this serene black lake with a viewing platform perfect for birdwatching and contemplating the tranquil forest setting.
Experience the Best of Pumalin Park
Join guided tours to discover the park’s highlights with knowledgeable local guides.
Hiking Trails in Pumalin Park
With 11 well-maintained hiking trails ranging from easy walks to challenging day hikes, Pumalin Park offers something for every level of hiker. Here are some of the best trails to explore.
| Trail Name | Difficulty | Distance | Duration | Starting Point | Highlights |
| Los Alerces Trail | Easy | 1.4 km (0.9 mi) | 40 min | 12.5 km south of Caleta Gonzalo | Ancient alerce trees up to 3,000 years old |
| Cascadas Escondidas | Easy | 3.5 km (2.2 mi) | 2 hours | Cascadas Escondidas campsite | Three beautiful waterfalls in lush forest |
| Volcán Chaitén Trail | Medium-High | 4.4 km (2.7 mi) | 2.5 hours | Los Gigios Bridge | Volcanic crater, views of Chaitén town |
| El Ventisquero Trail | Medium | 20 km (12.4 mi) | 6 hours | Ventisquero campsite | Close-up views of Amarillo Glacier |
| Laguna Tronador Trail | Medium-High | 4.8 km (3 mi) | 3-4 hours | Tronador Bridge | Mountain lagoon in natural amphitheater |
Hiking Tips: Trails are well-marked and maintained, but always register with park rangers before starting longer hikes. Bring waterproof clothing, sufficient water, and snacks. Some trails become slippery after rain, so proper footwear is essential.
Flora and Fauna of Pumalin Park
Pumalin Park is a biodiversity hotspot, with approximately half of all plant species found here being endemic to the region. The temperate rainforest ecosystem supports a rich variety of wildlife.
Notable Flora
- Alerce (Fitzroya): Ancient conifers that can live for 3,000+ years
- Coigüe: Evergreen southern beech trees dominating the forest
- Canelo: Sacred tree to the indigenous Mapuche people
- Notro: Known for its vibrant red flowers in spring
- Ferns and mosses: Covering forest floors and tree trunks
- Chilean firebush: Bright orange flowers attracting hummingbirds
Wildlife to Spot
- Pudú: World’s smallest deer species
- Monito del Monte: Chile’s only marsupial
- Chucao Tapaculo: Distinctive bird known for its call
- Magellanic Woodpecker: Large woodpecker with red crest
- Marine life: Dolphins, sea lions, and cormorants in the fjords
- Puma: Rarely seen but present in remote areas
Other Activities in Pumalin Park
Beyond hiking, Pumalin Park offers several other ways to experience its natural beauty and diverse ecosystems.
Kayaking
Explore the northern sector’s pristine fjords, sea lion colonies, and hidden thermal springs on multi-day kayak trips. Best for those with some kayaking experience.
Photography
The park’s diverse landscapes offer endless opportunities for nature photography, from macro shots of forest details to sweeping vistas of mountains and fjords.
Birdwatching
Bring binoculars to spot the park’s diverse bird species, including the Chucao Tapaculo, Magellanic Woodpecker, and hummingbirds.
Discover Guided Experiences in Pumalin
Enhance your visit with expert-led kayaking trips, photography tours, and wildlife excursions.
Practical Travel Tips for Pumalin Park
Essential Information
- Park Entrance: Free admission to the park and trails
- Camping Fee: CLP 6,000 (US$6) per person per night
- Opening Hours: 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM daily
- Administration: CONAF (Chilean National Forest Corporation)
- Connectivity: No cell phone signal or Wi-Fi within the park
- Electricity: No electrical outlets at campsites
What to Pack
- Rain gear: Waterproof jacket and pants, even in summer
- Hiking boots: Waterproof with good traction
- Layers: Weather can change quickly
- Camping gear: If staying at campsites
- Food supplies: No stores within the park
- Water bottle and purification: Campsite water is generally safe but bring purification as backup
- Cash: No ATMs in the park or nearby towns
Safety Tips: Always register with park rangers before hiking. Inform someone of your plans if heading on longer trails. Weather can change rapidly, so be prepared with appropriate clothing and emergency supplies.
Conservation Etiquette
- Stay on marked trails to protect sensitive vegetation
- Pack out all trash (no garbage collection in most areas)
- No campfires allowed (use camping stoves for cooking)
- Respect wildlife by maintaining distance and not feeding animals
- Use biodegradable soap for washing
- Leave no trace of your visit
History and Conservation of Pumalin Park
Understanding the remarkable conservation story behind Pumalin Park adds depth to any visit. What began as a private conservation initiative has become one of Chile’s crown jewels of environmental protection.
The Tompkins Legacy
In 1991, American conservationist Douglas Tompkins (founder of The North Face and Esprit) began purchasing large tracts of land in this region to protect it from logging and development. Over the years, he and his wife Kristine Tompkins acquired nearly one million acres, creating Pumalin Park as a private conservation project.
Following Douglas Tompkins’ unexpected death in 2015, Kristine Tompkins worked with the Chilean government to donate these lands. In 2018, Pumalin was officially designated as Pumalin Douglas Tompkins National Park, becoming part of Chile’s national park system.
Conservation Impact
The park protects one of the world’s last remaining temperate rainforests and serves as a crucial wildlife corridor. It preserves 25% of Chile’s remaining alerce trees, which are threatened throughout their range.
The Tompkins Conservation project represents the largest private land donation in history and has inspired similar conservation efforts throughout Patagonia. Today, the park is part of Chile’s Route of Parks (Ruta de los Parques), a 1,700-mile scenic route connecting 17 national parks.
Ready for Your Pumalin Park Adventure?
Pumalin Douglas Tompkins National Park represents one of the world’s greatest conservation success stories and offers visitors a chance to experience Patagonia’s pristine wilderness at its finest. From ancient alerce forests to smoking volcanoes, crystal-clear rivers to dramatic fjords, the park showcases nature’s grandeur in countless ways.
Whether you’re hiking to hidden waterfalls, kayaking alongside dolphins in the fjords, or simply marveling at trees that have stood for millennia, Pumalin Park offers unforgettable experiences for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. As you plan your journey to this remarkable destination, remember that your visit supports the ongoing conservation of one of Chile’s most precious natural treasures.
Begin Your Patagonian Journey
Start planning your trip to Pumalin Park and experience the magic of Chilean Patagonia.
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