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You may be surprised to learn that over 70,000 prisoners were sent to the notorious penal colony on Devil’s Island during its operation. This small island off the coast of French Guiana has a dark history that is as fascinating as it is haunting.
Today, Devil’s Island is a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the world. As part of the Salvation Islands archipelago, it’s easily accessible and offers a unique blend of historical significance and natural beauty. You can explore the ruins of the former prison, encounter diverse wildlife, and experience the island’s haunting atmosphere.
This comprehensive guide will take you through the top activities and experiences on Devil’s Island, from exploring the island’s history to enjoying its natural wonders. Whether you’re a history buff, nature lover, or adventure seeker, you’ll find something to captivate you on this intriguing island.
Discovering Devil’s Island: A Historical Overview
The history of Devil’s Island is deeply intertwined with that of the French penal colonies, a system that was established in the 1850s. As part of this notorious system, Devil’s Island served as a place of exile for people from all over the French Empire.
The Infamous Penal Colony Past
Devil’s Island was once the most feared destination for France’s most dangerous criminals and political prisoners. The harsh conditions on the island, including isolation, disease, and brutal treatment, made it a place of no return for many. Notable prisoners like Alfred Dreyfus and Henri “Papillon” Charrière brought international attention to the island with their stories.
Devil’s Island Today
After the closure of the penal colony in 1953, Devil’s Island transitioned into a historical site. Today, visitors can explore the ruins and remaining structures, which have been preserved as a testament to this dark chapter in French colonial history. The island’s transformation allows visitors to experience its significant historical context while surrounded by its natural beauty.
How to Get to Devil’s Island
To visit Devil’s Island, you’ll need to head to Kourou, the nearest coastal town. From there, you can take a boat to the island. Kourou is a short distance away from Devil’s Island, making it an ideal starting point for your trip.
Boat Options from Kourou
You can travel to Devil’s Island by ferry or catamaran from Ponton des Pecheurs in Kourou. The ferry departs daily at 7:50 am and is the most economical option. The journey takes approximately 1-1.5 hours, offering scenic views of the coastline of French Guiana. Alternatively, you can take a catamaran, which provides a more luxurious experience and can be combined with sailing around the islands.
Tour Packages Available
Several tour packages are available that include transportation to Devil’s Island, guided travel tours, and sometimes meals. You can also book a private boat charter for a more personalized experience. It’s advisable to book in advance, especially during peak season, to secure the best rates. This way, you can plan your island getaway in French Guiana with ease.
Best Time to Visit Devil’s Island
When planning your trip to Devil’s Island, French Guiana, timing is everything. The island’s unique history and natural beauty make it a fascinating destination, but the best experience depends on visiting at the right time.
Weather Considerations
The dry season, from July to November, is considered the best time to visit Devil’s Island. During these months, you can expect less rainfall and lower humidity, making it ideal for exploring the island’s rainforest and coastal areas. The temperature remains warm, averaging between 75°F and 88°F (24°C-31°C) throughout the year.
Tourist Seasons and Crowds
Visiting during the shoulder season (early July and late November) can offer a great balance between good weather and smaller crowds. Weekdays are generally less crowded than weekends. Planning your visit around special events or historical anniversaries can also enhance your experience.
Exploring the Penal Colony Ruins
As you step onto Devil’s Island, the remnants of a notorious past await your discovery. The Camp de la Transportation, the processing center for prisoners, offers a sobering look at French Guiana’s penal colony history. Here, you can see rusty shackles, solitary confinement cells, and other remnants of this brutal chapter in history.
The Main Prison Complex
The main prison complex ruins provide a glimpse into the harsh living conditions endured by prisoners. The layout includes cramped cells, isolation quarters, administration buildings, guard quarters, and punishment areas. As you explore, notice how nature has reclaimed much of the complex, creating an eerie juxtaposition of crumbling prison walls and lush tropical vegetation.
Papillon’s Legacy
Henri “Papillon” Charrière, a famous prisoner, left an indelible mark on Devil’s Island. His memoir, later adapted into a film, brought international attention to the penal colony. While controversy surrounds Papillon’s account, visitors can still see specific locations mentioned in his book, including cells where his name is engraved. Papillon’s legacy continues to fascinate people, drawing them to this place of dark history.
Wildlife Encounters on Devil’s Island
As you step onto Devil’s Island, you’re immediately immersed in a world teeming with diverse wildlife. The island’s transformation from a notorious penal colony to a protected nature reserve has created a unique ecosystem where animals have thrived.
Monkeys and Land Animals
The island is home to lots of tame and friendly spider monkeys that often approach visitors for food and attention. You may also spot other mammals such as agoutis and capybaras, and occasionally larger species like pumas and jaguars that swim between islands. With 450 animals from 75 species native to Guiana, the chances of encountering wildlife are high.
Bird Watching Opportunities
Devil’s Island is a birdwatcher’s paradise, with a diverse population that includes colorful macaws, toucans, and various seabirds nesting along the rocky coastline. Bring binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens to capture the beauty of these creatures in their natural habitat.
For optimal wildlife spotting, visit during the early morning or late afternoon when animals are most active. Be sure to behave responsibly around the wildlife and keep a safe distance to avoid disturbing them.
Island Hopping: The Salvation Islands Experience
The Salvation Islands, a trio of volcanic islands off the coast of Kourou, French Guiana, offer a unique island-hopping experience. While Devil’s Island (Île du Diable) is often closed to the public, you can explore Île Royale and Île Saint-Joseph, and view Devil’s Island from a distance.
Île Royale Highlights
Île Royale, the largest of the three islands, boasts former prison buildings converted into a hotel and museum. You can explore the chapel, administrative quarters, and other historical structures, immersing yourself in the island’s rich history.
Île Saint-Joseph Attractions
Île Saint-Joseph is known for its well-preserved prison buildings and solitary confinement cells, providing a glimpse into the harsh realities of the penal colony system. As you explore the islands, you’ll encounter abundant wildlife, including macaws, monkeys, and agouti, making for a memorable day trip.
To make the most of your day trip, consider visiting both Île Royale and Île Saint-Joseph, and take time to appreciate the unique atmosphere of each island. Facilities, including restrooms and food options, are available on the islands to ensure a comfortable visit.
Photography Spots on Devil’s Island
With its rich history and breathtaking landscapes, Devil’s Island is a photographer’s paradise. The island offers a diverse range of photography opportunities, from the dense jungle that covers much of the island to the historic ruins that dot the landscape.
Scenic Viewpoints
The coastal viewpoints on Devil’s Island are not to be missed, offering dramatic vistas where the jungle meets the Atlantic Ocean. For the best shots, consider visiting at dawn or dusk when the light is soft and golden.
Historical Photography Opportunities
The island is home to numerous historical ruins, including the remnants of the penal colony. The morning light illuminates the eastern ruins, while sunset casts dramatic silhouettes of the western structures. Technical photography tips include adjusting for the high contrast between bright tropical sunlight and the dark interior spaces of the ruins.
When photographing on Devil’s Island, consider composition ideas that capture both the natural beauty and the historical significance of the island. Wildlife photography opportunities abound, with monkeys, birds, and other island inhabitants making for compelling subjects.
Dining Options During Your Visit
Dining on Devil’s Island is an experience that combines the island’s historical past with its current culinary offerings. Visitors have a couple of options to enjoy their meals during their day trip.
Restaurant at Île Royale
The restaurant at Île Royale is located in a converted prison building, offering a unique dining experience. It serves a mix of French and Creole cuisine, often featuring fresh seafood caught around the islands. The menu is reasonably priced, and the terrace offers stunning views of the ocean and neighboring islands. You should plan your meals according to the restaurant’s limited operating hours.
Packing Food for Your Trip
If you prefer to bring your own food, consider packing items that travel well in the tropical heat. You can purchase supplies in Kourou before boarding the boat to the islands. This option allows you to enjoy your meal at your preferred time and location on the island.
Whether you choose to dine at the Île Royale restaurant or bring your own food, your meal is sure to be a memorable part of your trip to Devil’s Island, French Guiana.
Overnight Stays: Accommodation on the Islands
Experience the ultimate getaway in French Guiana by staying overnight on the enchanting Île Royale. The island offers a unique opportunity to stay in a historic hotel, formerly a prison building, now converted into a comfortable accommodation.
Historic Hotel on Île Royale
The hotel on Île Royale provides an immersive experience, allowing you to stay in a place steeped in history. You can enjoy the amenities while surrounded by the sounds of the jungle and the ocean. Sleeping in a former prison cell can be a surreal experience, adding to the adventure.
Camping Options
For the more adventurous, camping on designated areas of Île Royale is also available. This way, you can connect with nature and enjoy the tranquility of the island after the day-trippers have left. People often comment on the spectacular sunrises and sunsets witnessed from the island.
It’s advisable to book your accommodations in advance, as space is limited, especially during peak season. By staying overnight, you can experience the country in a unique way, surrounded by the natural beauty and history that French Guiana has to offer.
Nearby Attractions in French Guiana
The area around Devil’s Island is dotted with intriguing attractions that showcase the diversity of French Guiana. You can explore these nearby sites to enrich your travel experience.
Guiana Space Centre
The Guiana Space Centre, located near Kourou, is Europe’s primary spaceport. You can tour the launch facilities and potentially witness a rocket launch. With between five and ten rocket launches per year, you can watch the launch free of charge by checking the schedule at the visitor’s center (csg-accueil@cnes.fr). The space center is worth visiting, featuring a large museum and guided tours by bus (visites-csg@wanadoo.fr).
Kourou City Highlights
Kourou city is another highlight, serving as the gateway to both the space center and Devil’s Island. You can explore its cultural sites, markets, and enjoy the local cuisine. Kourou provides a unique blend of French and Guianese culture, making it an interesting stop on your journey.
By visiting these nearby attractions, you can experience the full richness of French Guiana, from its role in space exploration to its vibrant cultural heritage.
Cultural Experiences Around Devil’s Island
Beyond the infamous Devil’s Island, French Guiana offers a rich tapestry of cultural experiences waiting to be explored. The region’s diverse cultural heritage is reflected in its museums, historical sites, and traditional practices.
Local Museums
The Musée des Cultures Guyanaises in Cayenne showcases the diversity of ethnic groups in French Guiana, from native Amerindians to more recent immigrants. The museum features a wide range of artifacts, including textiles, baskets, and traditional jewelry.
Historical Walking Tours
Specialized walking tours in Kourou and Cayenne offer a glimpse into the penal colony history and its impact on the region. These tours provide a unique opportunity to learn about the complex history of Devil’s Island and its significance in French Guiana’s cultural identity.
Nature Excursions from Devil’s Island
Beyond the historical significance of Devil’s Island, the surrounding region offers a wealth of opportunities to experience the unique nature and wildlife of French Guiana. The area is home to several exceptional nature excursions that can be undertaken as day trips from the island.
Kaw Marshes Wildlife
The Kaw Marshes are a vast swampy area within a natural reserve on the banks of the Approuague River, providing a habitat for a diverse range of wildlife, including caimans, poison dart frogs, and vibrant bird species. Guided boat tours are available through the marshes, offering a unique insight into this ecosystem’s biodiversity. You can explore the marshes by day on large canoes or embark on nighttime nature-spotting safaris.
Sea Turtle Watching at Hattes Beach
At Awala-Yalimapo, Hattes Beach is renowned as the world’s most important nesting site for giant sea turtles, particularly during the peak season from April to July when they come to lay eggs. Visitors can witness the remarkable sight of these creatures on the beach. The hatching period occurs between July and September, offering another incredible experience.
Practical Tips for Visiting Devil’s Island, French Guiana: Best Things to Do
To ensure a smooth and enjoyable journey to Devil’s Island, consider these practical tips. Devil’s Island is a unique destination with a rich history and diverse wildlife.
What to Pack
When preparing for your trip to Devil’s Island, it’s essential to pack the right items. You should bring sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses), insect repellent, lightweight clothing, and a reusable water bottle. Don’t forget a camera with extra batteries and waterproof bags to protect your electronics during boat transfers.
Health and Safety Considerations
French Guiana is generally safe, but standard precautions are advised. Ensure you have the required yellow fever vaccination and consider malaria prophylaxis. Be mindful of the uneven terrain and potential for dehydration in the tropical climate.
Conclusion
The allure of Devil’s Island lies in its transformation from a notorious penal colony to a site of historical significance and natural wonder. As you explore this remote corner of French Guiana, you’ll uncover a unique blend of history and wildlife. From the penal colony ruins to encounters with friendly wildlife, Devil’s Island offers a travel experience unlike any other. Visiting this island is a poignant reminder of the past, coupled with the opportunity to witness the resilience of nature in a beautiful country that few travelers ever see.
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The above is subject to change.
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