Did you know that Lethem is home to the famous Rupununi Rodeo, where you can witness Guyana’s vaqueros (cowboys) showcase skills unchanged for over 150 years in one of South America’s most authentic cultural celebrations? This dusty frontier town on the Brazil-Guyana border serves as the gateway to the vast Rupununi savannah, offering adventurous travelers a rare glimpse into pristine wilderness and traditional ways of life that few destinations can match.
Planning Your Journey to Lethem
Lethem remains one of South America’s best-kept secrets, offering an authentic experience for those willing to venture off the beaten path. As the only substantial town in southern Guyana, it provides a unique blend of indigenous culture and frontier spirit, with pristine nature and remarkable biodiversity just beyond its dusty streets.
Lethem town with the vast Rupununi savannah stretching to the horizon
Getting There
International travelers typically arrive in Guyana through Cheddi Jagan International Airport near Georgetown, the capital. From there, you have several options to reach Lethem:
- By Air: The quickest option is a domestic flight with Trans Guyana Airways from Eugene F. Correia International Airport (Ogle) in Georgetown. Flights take approximately 90 minutes and cost around $150 USD each way. Note that these small aircraft have strict weight limits, so pack light.
- By Road: The overland journey from Georgetown to Lethem takes about 14-16 hours on unpaved roads. During the dry season, minibuses make the trip, but a 4×4 vehicle is recommended. This route becomes challenging or impassable during the rainy season.
- From Brazil: Lethem sits directly on the Brazil-Guyana border. You can cross the Takutu River Bridge from the Brazilian town of Bonfim, which is about 120 km from Boa Vista, a major Brazilian city with good transportation connections.
Best Time to Visit Lethem
Timing your visit to Lethem can significantly impact your experience in this remote frontier town. The region has distinct wet and dry seasons that affect travel conditions, wildlife viewing, and cultural events.
Sunset over the Rupununi savannah during the dry season
Best Time to Visit Lethem
The ideal times to visit Lethem are during the dry seasons:
February to April (Primary Dry Season)
- Clear, sunny days with temperatures between 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F)
- Excellent wildlife viewing opportunities
- Easter weekend hosts the famous Rupununi Rodeo
- Roads are most accessible during this period
September to November (Secondary Dry Season)
- Slightly cooler temperatures
- Less crowded than the Easter period
- Lush landscapes following the rainy season
- Good conditions for hiking and outdoor activities
Avoid: The rainy season from May to August can make travel difficult with muddy, sometimes impassable roads. December to January also sees heavy rainfall in the region.
Getting Around Lethem
Lethem itself is a small town that’s easy to explore on foot, but venturing into the surrounding Rupununi savannah requires more planning and appropriate transportation.
4×4 vehicle traversing the rugged terrain of the Rupununi savannah
- Within Lethem: The town is compact enough to walk around. For longer distances within town, you can find taxis or moto-taxis (motorcycle taxis) for short rides costing $0.50-3 USD.
- Exploring the Savannah: Venturing beyond Lethem requires 4×4 vehicles or ATVs. The terrain is challenging with no paved roads, only savannah tracks that can become impassable during rainy seasons.
- Guided Tours: For safety and practicality, it’s highly recommended to explore the Rupununi with experienced local guides or tour operators who know the terrain and conditions.
- River Travel: Kayaking along the Takutu River (which forms the border with Brazil) offers a peaceful way to explore the area and potentially spot wildlife.
Safety Note: Independent travel in the Rupununi savannah can be dangerous due to extreme heat, lack of infrastructure, and navigational challenges. Even experienced travelers should consider local guides for excursions beyond Lethem.
Where to Stay in Lethem
Accommodation options in Lethem are limited but sufficient for this frontier town. While you won’t find international hotel chains, the available lodging provides comfortable bases for exploring the region.
Eco-lodge accommodation in Lethem with traditional architecture
Takutu Hotel
The most established hotel in Lethem offers comfortable rooms with air conditioning and reliable Wi-Fi. The on-site restaurant serves good meals and cold drinks, making it a popular choice for visitors.
Price range: $80-120 USD per night
Rupununi Eco Hotel
This eco-friendly option provides a more authentic experience with rooms that blend modern comforts and local design. The hotel emphasizes sustainability and offers insights into local culture.
Price range: $60-100 USD per night
Savannah Inn
A simpler, budget-friendly option that provides clean, basic accommodations. While amenities are limited, it offers an affordable base for exploring Lethem and the surrounding areas.
Price range: $40-70 USD per night
Beyond Lethem: Wilderness Lodges
For those looking to immerse themselves in the Rupununi wilderness, several community-owned eco-lodges and ranches in the broader region offer unique accommodation experiences:
- Saddle Mountain Ranch: A working cattle ranch offering horse riding and an authentic vaquero experience in comfortable lodge accommodations.
- Community Eco-Lodges: Several indigenous communities in the Rupununi operate eco-lodges that provide cultural immersion alongside accommodation.
- Wilderness Camping: For the adventurous, guided camping trips allow you to sleep in hammocks under the stars in the savannah.
Booking Tip: Most accommodation in and around Lethem cannot be booked online through major booking platforms. Contact properties directly or work with a Guyanese tour operator to secure reservations.
Top Things to Do in Lethem
Lethem offers a unique blend of cultural experiences and natural adventures that showcase the authentic spirit of Guyana’s frontier region. Here are the best activities and attractions to include in your visit:
Vaqueros showcasing their skills at the famous Rupununi Rodeo
1. Attend the Rupununi Rodeo
If you’re visiting during Easter weekend, the annual Rupununi Rodeo is an absolute must-see. This colorful celebration of vaquero culture features events like bull riding, bronco busting, and barrel racing. Local cowboys showcase skills passed down through generations, creating one of South America’s most authentic cultural festivals.
2. Explore the Rupununi Savannah
The vast grasslands surrounding Lethem offer breathtaking landscapes and wildlife viewing opportunities. Guided 4×4 or ATV tours allow you to venture into this wilderness to spot animals like giant anteaters, deer, and various bird species against the backdrop of endless horizons.
Giant anteater in its natural habitat in the Rupununi savannah
3. Visit Indigenous Communities
The Rupununi region is home to several indigenous communities, primarily of the Macushi and Wapishana peoples. Organized visits to these villages offer insights into traditional ways of life, including cassava processing, handicraft making, and sustainable living practices that have sustained these communities for centuries.
4. Horse Riding at a Working Ranch
Experience the authentic vaquero lifestyle by spending time at a working cattle ranch like Saddle Mountain. Horse riding across the savannah with local cowboys provides a genuine connection to the land and its traditional practices.
Horseback riding with local vaqueros across the savannah
5. Kayak Along the Takutu River
The Takutu River forms the natural border between Guyana and Brazil. Kayaking along this waterway offers a peaceful way to experience the region’s beauty and potentially spot wildlife along the riverbanks. Several operators offer guided kayaking excursions suitable for various skill levels.
More Things to Explore in Lethem
The Takutu River Bridge connecting Guyana and Brazil
6. Cross the Takutu Bridge to Brazil
Take a short walk or taxi ride to the Takutu River Bridge and cross into Bonfim, Brazil. This international border crossing offers an interesting glimpse into the cultural differences between the two countries. Many visitors enjoy shopping for Brazilian goods or sampling Brazilian cuisine during a day trip.
7. Explore Lethem Market
The central market in Lethem is the heart of local commerce, especially on weekends. Here you’ll find fresh produce, crafts, and goods from both Guyana and Brazil. It’s an excellent place to interact with locals and experience the town’s unique blend of cultures.
Colorful stalls at Lethem Market offering local produce and crafts
8. Stargazing in the Savannah
The Rupununi savannah offers exceptional stargazing opportunities due to minimal light pollution. Spend an evening away from town to witness the spectacular night sky filled with stars, planets, and the Milky Way in stunning clarity.
9. Birdwatching
The diverse ecosystems around Lethem support an impressive variety of bird species. Birdwatchers can spot everything from colorful macaws to the majestic harpy eagle. Early morning excursions with knowledgeable guides offer the best viewing opportunities.
Colorful macaws in flight over the Rupununi region
10. Camp Under the Stars
For the adventurous traveler, guided camping trips in the savannah offer an unforgettable experience. Sleep in hammocks under the vast starry sky, cook over campfires, and fully immerse yourself in the wilderness of the Rupununi.
Day Trip: Kanuku Mountains
The Kanuku Mountains Protected Area lies just south of Lethem and offers some of Guyana’s most spectacular biodiversity. This mountain range houses over 60% of all bird species found in Guyana within just 1.5% of the country’s total land area.
The Kanuku Mountains rising from the Rupununi savannah
- Guided Hikes: Several trails of varying difficulty offer access to the mountains, though all require guides due to the remote nature of the area.
- Wildlife Viewing: The mountains are home to jaguars, giant river otters, harpy eagles, and countless other species.
- Cultural Significance: The mountains hold special importance for local indigenous communities who have traditional knowledge of the area.
Planning Tip: Day trips to the Kanuku Mountains should be arranged through reputable tour operators in Lethem who can provide transportation, guides, and necessary permits for entering protected areas.
Dining & Local Cuisine
Dining options in Lethem are limited but offer a unique blend of Guyanese and Brazilian influences. Most restaurants are simple establishments serving hearty, flavorful meals.
Traditional Guyanese meal featuring pepperpot and rice
Local Specialties to Try
- Pepperpot: A signature Guyanese dish of slow-cooked meat in a rich, spiced cassareep sauce.
- Cook-up Rice: A one-pot dish combining rice, beans, and various meats.
- Cassava Bread: Traditional indigenous flatbread made from cassava.
- Brazilian Churrasco: Given the proximity to Brazil, grilled meats in the Brazilian style are popular.
- Local Fruits: Try fresh tropical fruits like soursop, passion fruit, and guava.
Where to Eat
Most hotels in Lethem have on-site restaurants that serve reliable meals. Additionally, small local eateries around the central market area offer authentic Guyanese cuisine at very reasonable prices. For a taste of Brazil, several restaurants near the border serve Brazilian specialties.
Dining Tip: Food options become more limited the further you venture from Lethem into the savannah. Tour operators typically arrange meals for excursions, often featuring simple but delicious camp cooking.
Practical Travel Tips
Preparing equipment for a Rupununi savannah expedition
What to Pack
- Lightweight, quick-dry clothing
- Long sleeves and pants for sun/insect protection
- Wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses
- High-SPF sunscreen
- Insect repellent with DEET
- Reusable water bottle
- Basic first aid supplies
- Headlamp or flashlight
- Binoculars for wildlife viewing
Health & Safety
- Yellow fever vaccination is required
- Malaria prophylaxis is recommended
- Drink only bottled or purified water
- Carry sufficient cash (ATMs are unreliable)
- Purchase comprehensive travel insurance
- Register with your embassy if staying long
- Respect indigenous communities and customs
- Never venture into the savannah alone
Money Matters
The Guyanese Dollar (GYD) is the local currency, though some businesses in Lethem also accept Brazilian Reais due to the border proximity. There are limited ATM facilities in Lethem, and they can be unreliable. It’s advisable to bring sufficient cash from Georgetown. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside of the main hotels.
Communication
Mobile coverage in Lethem is limited but available through GTT and Digicel networks. Wi-Fi is offered at the main hotels but can be slow and unreliable. As you venture into the savannah, expect to lose connectivity entirely.
Important: When traveling to the interior, withdraw cash and purchase a SIM card in Georgetown. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside the capital, and internet connectivity is limited in Lethem and non-existent in most of the savannah.
Map of Lethem
Lethem is located in southern Guyana, right on the border with Brazil
Visitor Comments About Lethem
“The Rupununi Rodeo was the highlight of our South American adventure. Nowhere else can you see such authentic cowboy culture preserved in its original form. The local vaqueros were incredibly skilled, and the whole town came alive with festivities. Don’t miss it if you’re visiting around Easter!”
“Horseback riding across the savannah with the cowboys from Saddle Mountain Ranch was an experience I’ll never forget. The vastness of the landscape, the wildlife we spotted, and the knowledge of our guides made for an incredible adventure. Just be prepared for the heat!”
“Lethem itself isn’t much to look at, but it’s the perfect gateway to the amazing Rupununi region. We spent three days camping in the savannah and kayaking on the Takutu River. The stargazing was incredible, and we even spotted a giant anteater! Definitely worth the journey to get there.”
Nearby Attractions Worth Visiting
The majestic Kaieteur Falls, the world’s largest single-drop waterfall by volume
- Kaieteur Falls: While not exactly “nearby” (it requires a flight from Georgetown), this spectacular waterfall is Guyana’s most famous attraction and worth including in your itinerary if possible.
- Iwokrama Forest Reserve: This million-acre rainforest reserve offers excellent wildlife viewing and the famous canopy walkway for a bird’s-eye view of the forest.
- Surama Village: This Macushi community in the North Rupununi offers cultural experiences and eco-tourism activities in a beautiful setting.
The Untamed Frontier Awaits
Lethem and the surrounding Rupununi savannah offer a rare glimpse into a world where nature remains wild and traditions endure unchanged. From the thrilling spectacle of the Rupununi Rodeo to peaceful kayaking along the Takutu River, from horseback riding with vaqueros to camping under star-filled skies, this remote corner of Guyana rewards adventurous travelers with authentic experiences increasingly hard to find in our connected world.
While reaching Lethem requires effort and exploring the region demands preparation, those who make the journey discover a destination where adventure isn’t manufactured but simply exists in the daily rhythms of frontier life. As you plan your visit to this extraordinary place, embrace the spirit of adventure that defines the Rupununi, and prepare for experiences that will remain with you long after you’ve returned home.
The above is subject to change.
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