Did you know that Mljet is home to one of only three saltwater lakes in the Mediterranean that contain their own islands? This verdant paradise, where dense pine forests cover 84% of the land, offers a unique escape from Croatia’s more crowded destinations. Often overlooked in favor of more famous Croatian islands, Mljet delivers an authentic experience with its untouched nature, crystal-clear waters, and fascinating mythology—legend has it that Odysseus himself was captivated by this island for seven years.
Getting There & Planning Your Journey
Mljet is accessible only by ferry, with the closest airports being Dubrovnik (120 km) and Split (170 km). From these cities, you have several ferry options to reach the island.
From Dubrovnik
The most convenient route is from Dubrovnik, with daily catamaran services operated by G&V Line and Kapetan Luka. The journey takes approximately 1-1.5 hours, arriving at either Polače or Pomena ports on the western side of the island, or Sobra on the eastern side.
From Split
If you’re coming from Split, Kapetan Luka operates catamarans to Pomena during the summer season (June-September). The journey takes approximately 3-4 hours, making it a longer but still feasible option.
Car Ferry Option
If you plan to bring a vehicle, Jadrolinija operates a car ferry from Prapratno on the Pelješac Peninsula to Sobra. This 45-minute journey is ideal for those who want to explore the island thoroughly with their own transportation.
Best Time to Visit Mljet

The climate on Mljet is Mediterranean, with hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters. Your experience will vary significantly depending on when you visit.
Recommended Months (May-September)
- May-June: Ideal weather with temperatures around 22-26°C (72-79°F), fewer tourists, and lower prices. Perfect for hiking and outdoor activities.
- July-August: Peak season with the warmest temperatures 26-30°C (79-86°F) and warmest sea temperatures 24-25°C (75-77°F). Busiest and most expensive time.
- September: Still warm 22-25°C (72-77°F) with pleasant swimming conditions and fewer crowds as summer winds down.
Months to Avoid (November-February)
- November-February: Many facilities close, ferry schedules are limited, and temperatures drop to 10-15°C (50-59°F). Rainfall increases significantly.
- December-January: The coldest and wettest months, with limited tourist infrastructure available.
For the optimal balance of good weather, swimming conditions, and manageable crowds, late May to early June or September are your best bets. During these shoulder seasons, you’ll enjoy pleasant temperatures while avoiding the peak summer crowds.
Getting Around Locally

Mljet has one main road that runs the length of the island, connecting all major settlements. Your transportation options are somewhat limited but perfectly suited to the island’s laid-back nature.
Rental Cars & Scooters
Renting a car or scooter gives you the most flexibility to explore the entire island at your own pace. You can rent vehicles in Sobra or Pomena, with prices starting around €40 per day for scooters and €60 for cars. Having your own transportation is particularly useful if you’re staying on one end of the island but want to explore attractions on the opposite side.
Bicycles
Cycling is one of the best ways to explore Mljet National Park. Rental shops in Pomena, Polače, and at the Vrbovica parking lot offer regular bikes for around €10-15 per day and e-bikes for approximately €35. The paths around the saltwater lakes make for a scenic and relatively easy cycling experience.
Public Transportation
Public transport is limited on Mljet. During summer, there’s a shuttle service within Mljet National Park that connects the main points of interest. Outside the park, there are infrequent bus services between the main villages, but schedules are not always reliable.
Walking
While walking the entire island isn’t practical due to its size (37 km long), many attractions within Mljet National Park are accessible via walking trails. The path around the lakes is approximately 11 km (6.8 miles) and makes for a beautiful half-day hike.
Where to Stay

Accommodation options on Mljet are more limited than on larger Croatian islands, but you’ll find a good range of choices from the island’s only hotel to private apartments and guesthouses. Most options are concentrated in the western part of the island near the National Park.
Pomena
The most convenient location for National Park access, with the island’s only hotel and several restaurants and amenities.
- Hotel Odisej: The island’s only hotel, offering comfortable rooms with sea views.
- Guesthouse Sanela: Budget-friendly apartments near the beach with air conditioning and kitchenettes.
Polače
A charming village with Roman ruins and easy access to the National Park, offering a more authentic experience.
- Apartments Palma: Family-run apartments with sea views and kitchenettes.
- Villa Mirosa: Comfortable rooms with terraces overlooking the bay.
Sobra & Eastern Mljet
Quieter locations away from the National Park, ideal for those seeking a more secluded experience.
- Villa Mungos: Budget-friendly guesthouse with sea views in Sobra.
- Pine Tree Boutique Apartments: Luxury accommodation near Saplunara’s sandy beaches.
Dining & Local Cuisine

Mljet’s cuisine is typical Mediterranean fare with an emphasis on fresh seafood, locally grown produce, and olive oil. Most restaurants are found in the villages of Pomena, Polače, and Sobra.
Must-Try Local Dishes
- Brodet: A rich fish stew made with several types of local fish, often served with polenta.
- Peka: Meat or octopus slow-cooked under a bell-shaped lid with potatoes and vegetables.
- Black Risotto: Squid ink risotto, a Croatian specialty found in most seafood restaurants.
- Fresh Fish: Simply grilled with olive oil, garlic, and local herbs.
Recommended Restaurants
Konoba Marijina (Prožurska Luka)
One of the best seafood restaurants on the island, serving fresh catches in a beautiful setting overlooking the bay. Their octopus peka is legendary and must be ordered in advance.
Komarac (Polače)
Known for excellent Neapolitan-style pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven. Enjoy your meal on their vine-covered terrace with views of the landscape.
Melita Restaurant (St. Mary’s Island)
Located on the monastery island in Veliko Jezero, this restaurant offers a unique dining experience with views of the lake. Perfect for lunch during your National Park visit.
Vista Mare Beach Bar (Pomena)
Ideal for sunset drinks and light meals with a selection of cocktails and sparkling wines. The views of the sunset from here are among the best on the island.
Most restaurants on Mljet source their ingredients locally, with seafood caught daily by island fishermen. Prices are generally moderate by Croatian standards, with a typical meal costing between €15-30 per person.
Attractions, Sightseeing & Activities
1. Mljet National Park
Covering the northwestern third of the island, Mljet National Park is the island’s crown jewel. The park’s main attractions are two saltwater lakes—Veliko Jezero (Big Lake) and Malo Jezero (Small Lake)—connected by a narrow channel. Entrance tickets cost approximately €25 per person and are valid for your entire stay.
The park offers numerous hiking and cycling trails, with the path around the lakes being the most popular. Regular shuttle boats take visitors from Pristanište to St. Mary’s Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero.
2. St. Mary’s Island (Crkva Sv. Marije)
Located in the middle of Veliko Jezero, this small island houses a 12th-century Benedictine monastery and church. The monastery complex has been beautifully preserved and offers a fascinating glimpse into the island’s history. The island also features a restaurant and a small swimming area with crystal-clear waters.
3. Odysseus Cave (Odisejeva Špilja)
According to legend, this is where the Greek hero Odysseus took shelter after a shipwreck and was held captive by the nymph Calypso for seven years. The cave is accessible via a 30-minute hike from Babino Polje, followed by a swim through its entrance. Inside, you’ll find striking blue waters illuminated by sunlight filtering through an opening in the ceiling.
4. Roman Palace in Polače
Dating back to the 5th century, these impressive Roman ruins are among the largest on the Adriatic coast. The palace walls extend across the town’s main road, creating a unique experience where you can drive through ancient history.
5. Saplunara Beach
One of the few sandy beaches in Croatia, Saplunara is located on the southeastern tip of the island. Its shallow, clear waters and fine sand make it ideal for families. The beach is divided into two sections: Velika (large) and Mala (small) Saplunara.
Museums, Cultural Spots & Festivals

While Mljet is primarily known for its natural beauty, the island offers several cultural attractions that provide insight into its rich history and traditions.
Cultural Attractions
- Benedictine Monastery Museum: Located on St. Mary’s Island, this small museum houses artifacts related to the monastery’s history and the island’s cultural heritage.
- Church of St. Mary: The 12th-century church adjacent to the monastery features beautiful stonework and religious artifacts.
- Traditional Architecture: The villages of Goveđari, Babino Polje, and Prožurska Luka showcase traditional Dalmatian stone houses and rural architecture.
Festivals & Events
Mljet’s festival calendar is modest but offers authentic local experiences:
Fishermen’s Nights (Summer)
Held in various coastal villages throughout summer, these events feature fresh seafood, local wine, and traditional music. The most popular are in Polače and Sobra.
Feast of the Assumption (August 15)
A religious celebration at the Monastery on St. Mary’s Island with a procession, special mass, and community festivities.
MARS Summer Events (June-September)
The unique cliffside bar near Odysseus Cave hosts movie nights, concerts, creative workshops, and children’s cinema throughout summer.
Mljet Cultural Summer (July-August)
A series of concerts, art exhibitions, and cultural performances held at various locations around the island.
While Mljet doesn’t have formal museums beyond the monastery, the entire island serves as a living museum of natural and cultural heritage. The traditional way of life is still preserved in many aspects, from fishing techniques to olive cultivation.
Sports, Nature & Outdoor Experiences

Mljet’s pristine nature makes it a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The island offers numerous activities that allow you to immerse yourself in its natural beauty.
Water Activities
- Swimming: The saltwater lakes offer a unique swimming experience with warm, crystal-clear waters. The small bridge at Mali Most between the lakes is a popular swimming spot.
- Kayaking: Rent kayaks at Mali Most to explore the lakes from a different perspective. Paddling to St. Mary’s Island is a popular route.
- Stand-Up Paddleboarding: SUP rentals are available at several locations around the lakes, offering a peaceful way to explore the shoreline.
- Snorkeling & Diving: The Diving Centre Aquatica in Pomena offers guided diving trips to explore the lakes’ underwater world, ancient shipwrecks, and marine life.
Land Activities
- Hiking: Numerous trails crisscross the island, with the most popular being the path around the lakes (11 km/6.8 miles) and the hike to Montokuc viewpoint (256 m/840 ft).
- Cycling: Rent bikes to explore the National Park’s network of cycling paths. The trail around the lakes is relatively flat and suitable for most fitness levels.
- Cliff Jumping: For the adventurous, Odysseus Cave offers various heights for cliff jumping into the azure waters below.
Nature Spotting
Mljet is home to diverse flora and fauna. Watch for:
- Mediterranean Vegetation: Aleppo pines, holm oaks, strawberry trees, and myrtle create the island’s lush landscape.
- Marine Life: The clear waters make it easy to spot fish, sea urchins, and occasionally dolphins in the surrounding sea.
- Mongoose: Introduced to the island in the early 20th century to control the snake population, these curious creatures can sometimes be spotted in the forests.
Safety, Etiquette & Local Customs

Mljet is generally a very safe destination with low crime rates. However, there are some safety considerations and local customs to be aware of during your visit.
Safety Tips
- Fire Hazard: Due to the dense pine forests, fire risk is high during summer. Never discard cigarettes outdoors or start open fires.
- Sun Protection: The Mediterranean sun can be intense, especially when reflected off water. Use high SPF sunscreen, wear a hat, and stay hydrated.
- Swimming Safety: When swimming in caves or remote areas, never swim alone and be aware of boat traffic.
- Hiking Preparedness: Wear appropriate footwear for hiking (especially to Odysseus Cave), carry water, and inform someone of your plans if hiking remote trails.
- Wildlife: While there are no dangerous animals on Mljet (the mongoose eliminated the once-present snakes), be cautious of sea urchins when swimming.
Local Etiquette & Customs
- Greetings: A simple “Dobar dan” (Good day) is appreciated when entering shops or restaurants.
- Tipping: A 10% tip is customary in restaurants if you’re satisfied with the service.
- Conservation: Respect the National Park rules—don’t remove plants or animals, stay on marked paths, and take all trash with you.
- Church Visits: When visiting the monastery or churches, dress modestly (cover shoulders and knees) and speak quietly.
- Local Pace: Island life moves slowly—embrace the relaxed pace and don’t expect rushed service.
Practical Information
- Language: Croatian is the official language, but English is widely spoken in tourist areas.
- Currency: Euro (€) is the official currency as of January 2023.
- Medical Facilities: There’s a small medical center in Babino Polje for minor issues. For serious medical concerns, evacuation to Dubrovnik may be necessary.
- Water: Tap water is safe to drink throughout the island.
Visitor Comments About Mljet

I.R., Daegu
“Mljet was the highlight of our Croatian island-hopping adventure. The National Park’s saltwater lakes are unlike anything I’ve seen before—swimming in that crystal-clear water surrounded by pine forests felt like being in a fairy tale. Don’t miss hiking to Odysseus Cave and jumping into that incredible blue water. We rented bikes to explore the park and it was the perfect way to see everything at our own pace.”
K.C., Manhattan
“After the crowds of Dubrovnik, Mljet was exactly the peaceful retreat we needed. We stayed in Pomena which was perfectly located for exploring the National Park. The island has this magical quality—the air smells of pine, the water is impossibly blue, and at night the stars are incredible. My tip: rent a car to explore the entire island, including the sandy beaches at Saplunara which were almost empty even in July. Just be prepared for winding roads!”
F.T., Palmerston North
“We visited Mljet as a day trip from Dubrovnik, which gave us enough time to see the National Park but left me wishing we’d stayed overnight. The lakes are stunning and St. Mary’s Island with its monastery is fascinating. Pack your swimming gear—you’ll want to cool off in those beautiful lakes! The restaurants in Polače served some of the freshest seafood we had in Croatia. If you’re short on time, a day trip works, but I’d recommend at least 2-3 days to truly appreciate this island paradise.”
Practical Travel Tips

What to Pack
- Mosquito Repellent: Essential due to the island’s forested areas, especially in summer.
- Comfortable Walking Shoes: For hiking trails and exploring the National Park.
- Swimwear & Quick-dry Towel: For spontaneous swims in the lakes and sea.
- Water Bottle: Refillable to stay hydrated during activities.
- Cash: ATMs are limited on the island, so bring enough euros for your stay.
- Snorkeling Gear: While rentals are available, bringing your own ensures availability.
Money-Saving Tips
- Multi-day National Park Tickets: If staying several days, the multi-day pass offers better value.
- Self-catering: Book accommodation with kitchen facilities and shop at local markets.
- Water Refills: Tap water is safe to drink, so refill bottles instead of buying plastic ones.
- Shoulder Season: Visit in May-June or September for lower prices and fewer crowds.
- Bike Rentals: Rent for multiple days to receive discounted rates.
Connectivity
- Mobile Coverage: Generally good in villages but can be spotty in remote areas.
- Wi-Fi: Available in most accommodations and restaurants in Pomena and Polače.
- Offline Maps: Download offline maps before arrival as signal can be unreliable.
Sustainable Tourism
- Respect Nature: Stay on marked trails and don’t disturb wildlife.
- Reduce Plastic: Bring reusable water bottles and shopping bags.
- Support Local: Eat at family-run restaurants and buy local products.
- Water Conservation: Despite being surrounded by water, fresh water is precious on the island.
Your Mljet Adventure Awaits: Croatia’s Hidden Paradise Calls
Mljet offers a rare combination of untouched nature, fascinating history, and authentic island atmosphere that’s increasingly hard to find in the Mediterranean. From the mesmerizing saltwater lakes of the National Park to the mythical Odysseus Cave, from cycling through pine-scented forests to swimming in crystal-clear waters, this green oasis provides a perfect escape from the hustle of everyday life. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, Mljet delivers an experience that will linger in your memory long after you’ve returned home. As one of Croatia’s best-kept secrets, now is the time to discover this enchanting island before the rest of the world catches on.
The above is subject to change.
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